There’s an open source Kodi plugin that lets you login to Netflix, browse the streaming video service’s catalog, and play videos.
Here’s something you may not know: that HDTV that you love so much probably doesn’t show the whole picture on its screen. In fact, up to five percent of the picture can get cut off around the edges—this is called overscan. It’s old technology that’s left over from the CRT (cathode ray tube) televisions of yesteryear. Here’s why it existed in the first place, why it’s still used today, and how to (hopefully) turn it off on your TV.
When the Raspberry Pi team launched a tiny, low power computer priced at just $35, it was pretty remarkable. But that was 2 years ago, and while the Raspberry Pi has seen a few updates in that time, it’s still powered by the same single-core 700 MHz Broadcomm BCM2835 ARM11 processor.
Over the past few years a number of other single-board computers with more powerful hardware have appeared, but they usually also have higher price tags.
Hardkernel’s ODROID-C1 doesn’t though… it’s a quad-core mini computer that sells for just $35.
Full article and demonstration videos here:
ODROID-C1 is a $35 quad-core, single-board Android/Linux PC (Liliputing)
$35 quad-core hacker SBC offers Raspberry Pi-like size and I/O (LinuxGizmos.com)
Ordroid-C1 vs Raspberry Pi B+: Hardware, Benchmark, Storage and Ethernet Performance Comparison tables from Ordroid
If you are running a satellite backend system such as TVHeadEnd or MediaPortal (or MythTV, if you are one of the lucky few that can actually get it to work), and you use Kodi or the MythTV frontend, then it is possible to populate the schedule grid with listings from many sources. Note I did not say that it is easy, just that it is possible. The key is to use an external program … These are commonly referred to as “schedule grabbers”, or just “grabber” programs.
The real trick is figuring out how to use one of those programs. …..
A couple of years ago, I acquired a HDHomeRun Dual device, and discovered how nice it was to be able to stream terrestrial TV signals to anywhere in my home via my local network. I set up a backend system so that I could record programs and enjoy watching them at my convenience. I wondered if it was also possible to do the same thing with the signals I received off my satellite dishes. So earlier this year I attempted to build a backend system that could receive free-to-air satellite signals and stream them to the various computers around my home, including the home theater PC’s that are connected to my HDTV receivers. Let’s just say that the first attempts didn’t work as well as I’d hoped. There is a huge learning curve, particularly if you’re not a programmer nor otherwise particularly geeky, and sometimes the hardware and the backend software just won’t cooperate.
Then I stumbled across a page on the TBS MOI+. I suspected that it might be able to accomplish what I’d been trying to do, and in a lot smaller package. So, I went online in an attempt to find some reviews on this device. To my surprise, little has been written about it, particularly in English. So, hoping to fill that gap, I contacted TBS and asked if they might be interested in providing a unit for review purposes. They graciously consented, and this review is the result. Just so you know, I did not promise to write only nice things about the unit, and I’m not getting paid anything for this review, beyond receiving the MOI+. So, this will be as honest of a review as I can make it.
Full article here:
Review of the TBS MOI+ DVB S/S2 Satellite TV Linux Server – a bit like a HDHomeRun, but for Free-To-Air satellite signals (Free To Air America)
If you have found this page you have probably already come across several other pages that try to tell you how to get the MCE USB remote working in Ubuntu. Maybe you are a Kodi user and you came across this thread, and you tried everything but nothing would work – in fact, when you ran the ir-keytable program (which you’ve almost certainly already installed if you’ve found any other pages on this subject) in test mode, you may have found that on the keys that work at all, you got strange combinations of square brackets and letters instead of the expected output. Well, before you give up, and especially if you’re installing Ubuntu (or some other *buntu variant) on new hardware, here are two things to check.
First, if you are using a USB infrared receiver, try a different USB port. In our case, this made the difference between getting no response at all out of the thing and the aforementioned cryptic square brackets/letters.
But also, try running sudo ir-keytable one more time, and look to see if maybe it’s finding more than one IR device (even if you are sure you only have one). For example, when we ran it, we were seeing this (and I hate to say it, but it took far too long to dawn on me that we were seeing TWO devices there):
$ sudo ir-keytable Found /sys/class/rc/rc0/ (/dev/input/event4) with: Driver ite-cir, table rc-rc6-mce Supported protocols: NEC RC-5 RC-6 JVC SONY SANYO LIRC RC-5-SZ other Enabled protocols: RC-6 Name: ITE8704 CIR transceiver bus: 25, vendor/product: 1283:0000, version: 0x0000 Repeat delay = 500 ms, repeat period = 125 ms Found /sys/class/rc/rc1/ (/dev/input/event10) with: Driver mceusb, table rc-rc6-mce Supported protocols: NEC RC-5 RC-6 JVC SONY SANYO LIRC RC-5-SZ other Enabled protocols: RC-6 Name: Media Center Ed. eHome Infrared bus: 3, vendor/product: 1784:0008, version: 0x0101 Repeat delay = 500 ms, repeat period = 125 ms
The real IR device is the “Media Center Ed. eHome Infrared”, so what’s the “ITE8704 CIR transceiver”? We have no idea – maybe there’s some vestigial circuitry for an IR receiver in the computer, and it’s detected during startup, but there no actual IR receiver there? In any case, once we realized what the problem was, we found the solution in a post in the Kodi forum:
edit : “/etc/modprob.d/blacklist.conf” and add the line:
The prevents the operating system from seeing the non-existent IR receiver, and only lets it see the real one. We then reinstalled lirc (which we had removed because so many pages had said it wasn’t necessary) and all of a sudden our remote came back to life, with all the buttons working in Kodi again. If you have a similar situation, you can try blacklisting the driver for the non-existent or non-functional device in a similar manner. And if that isn’t the problem, perhaps one of the links mentioned above can help. That’s Linux for you sometimes – the solution to a problem takes about 30 seconds to implement, but finding it takes HOURS. 🙁
Chorus is an add-on for XBMC that lets you remotely manage, build playlists, queue up videos, organize your library, and do just about anything you want with your media center—all from the comfort of a browser window on another device.
Full article here:
Chorus Is a Powerful Web-Based Remote Control for XBMC (Lifehacker)
For my first ible I just wanted to give everyone a quick tutorial on how to use the HDMI-CEC protocol to control your Pi with your Tv’s remote control.
This is very useful because is saves you from having to buy a remote just for your Pi and also leaves you with an open usb that you would have needed for your wireless keyboard and mouse.
Full article here:
Raspberry Pi Remote For Free! (Instructables)
This thread contains information on the buggy XBMC version 12.3 for OS X, and a couple of suggestions for reverting back to XBMC 12.2, which will fix the problem for now. This issue does NOT appear to be present in Linux versions of XBMC 12.3.
We don’t know (though we’d happily accept a device for review if anyone at Asus happens to read this), but it is quite possibly the most easily upgradeable PC we have ever come across, as this video shows:
YouTube link: ASUS VivoPC Overview
This is the only full review we could find. The audio track is in Italian, but you can turn on English subtitles from the CC button in the player (that should appear once you start the video):
YouTube link: Recensione ASUS VivoPC – Review
From what we’re seeing here, it looks like this is a unit to keep an eye on, since it seems to play video pretty smoothly under both Windows and Linux. Just keep in mind that you may want to add or upgrade the memory if you plan to use this for serious computing, but I don’t think you’ll see too many systems that make that an easier process.
Note that this is the lowest-end unit of the VivoPC series, but there are two higher-end models that come in black cases and have upgraded hardware, naturally at a higher price.
Here’s a link to the article that tipped us off to this device:
Asus VivoPC mini-desktop now available for $320 and up